Peru Series (2) Lima 祕魯系列 (2) 利馬

It’s pity that many visitors only take flights to Lima and directly transfer to other cities. For me, Lima is an interesting combination of modern city and traditional culture. If available, would suggest to at least spend two days in Lima to experience the unique style of the Peruvian capital. Note – marked the most recommended places with red.

【許多遊客搭飛機到利馬(Lima)後,就直接轉到其他城市,其實真的很可惜。利馬是現代城市與傳統文化的完美結合,如果可以的話,建議至少在利馬待兩天,感受一下祕魯首都的獨特風情。附註:我把最推薦的地方用紅色標出來了!】

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Centro Historico: walking around the historical center of Lima is simply enjoyable with both the sophisticated architectures and the vibrant atmosphere

  • Highlights: Plaza de Armas, Palacio de Gobierno, La Catedral de Lima, Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco, Plaza San Martin, Iglesia de la Merced
  • Food options: Churros San Francisco (Peruvian churros, nearby Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco), El Mirador de Chabuca (picante de mariscos, ceviche, chupe), Hotel Bolivar (Pisco sour, nearby Plaza San Martin), El Chinito (sandwich and ribs, nearby Plaza de Armas), Pasteleria San Martin (local dessert “Turrones”, nearby Plaza San Martin)
  • Notes: would suggest to allocate 0.5-1 day to walk around the historical town and join the tour in Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco to visit the beautiful library and catacombs.

Centro Historico:在利馬的歷史中心漫步、觀賞精巧的建築、並感受活潑的氛圍,真的是件很令人享受的事情。】

  • 觀光重點武器廣場(Plaza de Armas),政府宮(Palacio de Gobierno),大教堂(La Catedral de Lima),聖法蘭西斯修道院(Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco),聖馬丁廣場(Plaza San Martin),La Merced 教堂(Iglesia de la Merced)
  • 美食推薦Churros San Francisco(祕魯式吉拿棒 Churros,在聖法蘭西斯修道院附近),El Mirador de Chabuca(辣海鮮飯 Picante de mariscos、檸檬醃生魚 Ceviche、河蝦海鮮湯 chupe),Hotel Bolivar(皮斯科調酒 Pisco Sour,在聖馬丁廣場附近),El Chinito(三明治與肋排,在武器廣場附近),Pasteleria San Martin(祕魯式沙其瑪 Turrones,在聖馬丁廣場附近)
  • 大王筆記:建議安排 0.5 至 1 天在舊城區散步,並參加聖法蘭西斯修道院的導覽,參觀內部美麗的圖書館與地下墓穴。

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Larco Museum: located in the Pueblo Libre District, Larco Museum is one of my favorite places in Lima – can’t ask for a better place to spend some quality time with yourself or friends in the afternoon or at night!

  • Highlights: main museum, erotic gallery (an exhibition of erotic potteries)
  • Food options: the internal restaurant is very nice for both drinks and food, and there are some good Peruvian options on the menu
  • Notes: the lawn in the center of this museum is very comfortable, so better to choose pants that you feel comfortable to sit on the lawn!

拉科博物館:位於 Pueblo Libre 區,是我在利馬最喜歡的地方之一。非常適合獨自一人或與朋友前往,享受美好午後或夜晚時光。】

  • 觀光重點主要博物館館藏性愛藝廊(關於性愛陶器的展覽)
  • 美食推薦:博物館內餐廳的飲品和食物都不錯,也有一些很好的祕魯菜選項
  • 大王筆記:在博物館中央的草地很舒服,建議可以選擇適合坐在草地上的褲子前往~

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Miraflores: the modern part of Lima that you can barely distinguish it from other international cities, but the coastline is very beautiful and restaurants here are nice

  • Highlights: walking areas along the coast line (shopping mall Larcomar, Amor Park, lighthouse), walking down to the beach from stairs nearby Amor Park, walking areas around Parque John F. Kennedy and Parque Central de Miraflores, Huaca Pucllana (historical site), streets and antiques stores on the west side of areas between Metropolitano’s Estacion Angamos and Estacion Ricardo Palma
  • Food optionsLa Mar Cebicheria (Peruvian seafood), Huaringas Bar (bar), Buenavista Cafe (a cafe with great ocean view), La Picanteria (Peruvian seafood), Pescados Capitales (Peruvian fusion), amaz (Amazonian food), Ana Avellana (dessert), Café Et Chocolat (chocolate), Al Toke Pez (small store selling street food style ceviche)
  • Notes: would suggest to allocate an afternoon and night to walk around and enjoy the beautiful coastline. Good to choose accommodation and restaurants in this area.

Miraflores:利馬的現代區,相對較沒有特色、不易和其他國際城市區別,但海岸線很美、周圍餐廳也都很棒】

  • 觀光重點沿著海岸線的徒步區(Larcomar 購物中心、愛情公園、燈塔),從愛情公園旁的階梯走到海灘區,甘迺迪公園(Parque John F. Kennedy)和中央公園(Parque Central de Miraflores)附近的徒步區,Huaca Pucllana 遺址,位在 Metropolitano Estacion Angamos 到 Estacion Ricardo Palma 之間西邊區域的街道與古董店
  • 美食推薦La Mar Cebicheria(祕魯式海鮮),Huaringas Bar(酒吧),Buenavista Cafe(有美麗海景的咖啡廳),La Picanteria(祕魯式海鮮),Pescados Capitales(新祕魯風),amaz(亞馬遜美食),Ana Avellana(甜點),Café Et Chocolat(巧克力),Al Toke Pez(路邊小店,在賣路邊攤風的檸檬醃生魚)
  • 大王筆記:建議安排一個下午到晚上來走走,感受一下美麗的海岸線。在這裡選擇住宿或餐廳都不錯!

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El Circuito Magico del Agua: a beautiful park with dancing water fountain; would suggest to go at night to enjoy the romantic atmosphere, but no need to see the lighting show

El Circuito Magico del Agua:漂亮的水舞公園;建議可以晚上前往以感受浪漫氣氛,但不需要特別看燈光秀】

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Barranco: the artistic area of Lima to enjoy bars, galleries, graffiti, ocean views and street performance!

  • Highlightswalking around the bridge of sighs, going downstairs to see more graffities, coming upstairs back to the Parque Municipal, and the walk along coastline on the cliff toward Miraflores for a while; Museo Mario Testino (a famous Peruvian photographer; highly recommend the series of people from Cusco on the 2nd floor), Galeria Lucia de la Puente (a contemporary art gallery), Museo Pedro de Osma (if you don’t have enough time, then seeing the mansion itself is enough, no need to buy tickets);
  • Food options: Ayahuasca (a bar with beautiful Peruvian decoration), Isolina Taberna Peruana (a restaurant on my list but I haven’t had time to try it…), Dada Bar (also on my to-do list)
  • Notes: Barranco is more artistic during daytime and more romantic at night

Barranco:利馬的藝術區,可以來這裡享受酒吧、藝廊、塗鴉、海景與街頭表演!】

  • 觀光重點在 Bridge of Sighs 附近走走後下樓看塗鴉、再爬上樓梯走回主要廣場(Parque Municipal),接著在崖上沿著海岸線往 Miraflores 的方向走一小段路Museo Mario Testino(知名祕魯攝影師的博物館,強烈推薦二樓的庫斯科人物展),Galeria Lucia de la Puente(現代藝廊),Museo Pedro de Osma(如果沒有時間,可以來看看建築本身就夠了,不需買票),
  • 美食推薦Ayahuasca(擁有美麗祕魯風裝潢的酒吧),Isolina Taberna Peruana(在口袋名單上但一直沒機會試試看的餐廳XD),Dada Bar(也是在待訪名單中的店)
  • 大王筆記:白天藝術氣息比較濃厚、晚上則比較浪漫,可以不同時間都來感受一下

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World Top 50 Restaurants

In general, Peruvian restaurants and street food are very delicious and affordable, so I won’t say that visiting these top restaurants is necessary. However, if you are interested, here are my personal opinions on them.

  • Maido: perfect combination of Peruvian ingredients and Japanese cuisine with some fusion of Chinese flavor. Not as inspiring and representative as Central, but surely delicious.
  • Central: unique ingredients from different places in Peru. The dining experience is like traveling around Peru with the chef to explore local species. Not all delicious, but definitely surprising. The mini tasting menu in the bar area has only 8-course and is highly recommended if you have budge constraint!
  • Astrid & Gaston: relatively traditional Peruvian food with some little innovation – can skip this if you have limited time or budget

全世界最佳的50間餐廳

總體而言,祕魯的餐廳和路邊攤都很好吃又不貴,所以不一定要拜訪這些高級餐廳。但如果你仍然有興趣,以下是我的一些想法。

  • Maido:祕魯食材與日式料理的完美結合,有時還會帶點中式風味。沒像Central一樣具啟發性與代表性,但真的好好吃!
  • Central:用心上山下海尋找秘魯特殊食材,用餐就像跟大廚在秘魯旅行、探索當地特有種。不一定美味,但絕對驚艷。如果有預算限制,推薦你預約吧台區專有的八道菜 mini tasting menu
  • Astrid & Gaston:相對傳統的祕魯料理再加上一些小創新--如果時間或預算不足,可以跳過。

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Recommended Tour: Authentic Lima Tour by Alternative Peru

  • Official website: https://www.alternativeperu.org/lima-tours/
  • The tour is to promote sustainable tourism, meaning that they want to make positive impact on local communities through tourism (e.g. share profits back to communities, be eco-friendly, support local development)
  • The main focus is an outskirt area that accommodates Peruvians who survived from terrorism. These people were forced to leave mountains and move to Lima 20+ years ago due to violent fights between terrorists and governments
  • In the tour, we visited a cemetery, a school, a public dining hall, a NGO and local families. I felt touched on how little support they got from governments and how great progress they have achieved by themselves! 

推薦旅行團:Alternative Peru Authentic Lima Tour

  • 官方網站:https://www.alternativeperu.org/lima-tours/
  • 這個旅行團希望推廣永續型觀光,並且透過觀光為當地社區帶來正面影響力(例如:將利潤分享給社區、尊崇自然保護、支持地方發展等)
  • 行程關注的焦點為利馬的外圍區域。居民多為 20 年前因恐怖組織與政府間的血腥惡鬥,而被迫離開山區、遷來利馬的祕魯人。
  • 這趟旅程中,我們參觀了公墓、學校、食堂、非營利組織和在當地家庭吃午飯。很驚訝他們從政府拿到那麼少資源,卻憑藉社區力量有了很大的進步。

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Transportation

  • Metropolitano sets up special channels for buses to avoid any traffic, so take it rather than Uber during peak hours! Use TuRuta to check recommended bus routes, but there’s no timetable for reference
  • Outside of the Metropolitano coverage, Uber is still the best and easiest way to navigate most of the time. Taking taxis from streets is not recommended due to language barrier and safety concern.

公共交通

  • Metropolitano 為公車專用道、完全不受塞車影響,推薦尖峰時段搭 Metropolitano、而不是叫計程車。此外,可下載 TuRuta 等公車路線軟體確認可以搭的公車路線;然而,到目前為止,都尚未提供時刻表服務
  • 在Metropolitano的範圍之外,Uber仍然是最好也最容易的交通方式。因為語言隔閡和安全考量,不推薦在路邊叫計程車。

Reference Blogs 參考網誌

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