Peru Series (8) Sacred Valley 祕魯系列 (8) 聖谷

Sacred Valley is a large area full of Inca historical sites. Since the transportation among key sites takes 1-2 hours, would suggest to plan for at least 2 days here besides 1-2 days in Machu Picchu area.

聖谷(Sacred Valley)是一塊遍佈印加遺址的廣大區域。因為重要景點之間,通常需要開車 1 至 2 小時,建議安排至少 2 天在聖谷地區遊玩(不包含在馬丘比丘的 1 至 2 天)!

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Highlights

  • Pisac: complete ruins and a handicraft market selling souvenirs
  • Ollataytambo: a lovely town with beautiful ruins, and also a good place for accommodation in Sacred Valley
  • Moray: Inca circular terraces; get there through a small town called Moras
  • Salinas: salt pan terraces
  • [Note for Chichero] I didn’t go there. Since Pisac, Ollataytambo, Machu Picchu are all Inca cities, I guess that if you have time constraint, it might be redundant to visit Chichero (I might be wrong haha!)

觀光重點

  • 皮薩克(Pisac):完整的印加古城遺址,也有手工藝品市集
  • 奧揚泰坦博(Ollataytambo):一個可愛的小鎮,有幾處印加遺址,為聖谷內適合住宿的好地方
  • 摩瑞(Moray):印加式圓形梯田,經由馬拉斯(Moras)小鎮進入
  • 馬拉斯鹽田(Salinas):梯田式鹽田,經由馬拉斯小鎮進入
  • 關於琴切羅因為時間不夠,所以我沒有去。因為皮薩克、奧揚泰坦博、馬丘比丘都是印加城市,我猜琴切羅可能會看起來有些重複,或許可以跳過(但我也可能想錯啦哈哈!)

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Itinarery

Due to time constraint, there’s almost no tour covering all four spots in one tour. Usually, Pisac and Ollataytambo in one, and Moray and Salinas in another tour. Chichero could be combined with either tour, and Urubamba is only a place for lunch and not much to see. 1-day ticket for S./70 while 10-day ticket for S./130.

It’s possible to have a private driver to leave Cusco at 7:30 a.m. and visit all four spots in 1 day for ~US$100. However, since (1) every site has lots to see and (2) having a guide to explain history would make the trip more interesting, I would recommend to join group tours. Please see my itinarery as below for your reference.

  • Day 1 Group tour to Pisac and Ollataytambo (US$20): 8:30am departed from Cusco – Pisac – 1pm Urubamba for buffet lunch – 2pm Ollataytambo – 3:30pm left the group to go to Aguas Calientes (the rest group continued to Chichero and expected to be back to Cusco around 6 p.m.)
  • Day 2 Machu Picchu: came back to Ollataytambo for accommodation
  • Day 3 Private tour w/o guide to Moray and Salinas (US$75):  9am departed from Ollataytambo – Moray for 30 mins – Salinas for 30 mins – 1:30pm arrived at Cusco airport

行程規劃

因為時間限制,幾乎沒有旅行團會同時參訪以上四個重要景點。一般而言,皮薩克和奧揚泰坦博會排在一起、摩瑞和馬拉斯鹽田會排在另一組行程。琴切羅可以排入任何一組,而烏魯班巴(Urubamba)則只是個吃飯的地方,沒有太多景點。一日票卷 s./70,而十日票卷 s./130。

如果想一口氣參觀完以上四個景點,安排專屬司機、早上 7:30 從庫斯科出發是可行的,價格約 100 美金。然而,因為每個景點都有許多可看之處,再加上導遊會解釋許多有趣的細節,建議還是參加旅行團!

以下行程提供給大家參考:

  • 第一天,旅行團前往皮薩克、奧揚泰坦博(美金 20 元):8:30am 由庫斯科出發 – 皮薩克 – 1pm 烏魯班巴吃自助式中餐 – 2pm 奧揚泰坦博 – 3:30pm 脫隊前往熱水鎮(剩下的繼續前往琴切羅,預計 6 點回到庫斯科)
  • 第二天,馬丘比丘:晚上回奧揚泰坦博住宿
  • 第三天,專屬司機前往摩瑞和馬拉斯鹽田(美金 75):9am 由奧揚泰坦博出發 – 在摩瑞停留 30 分鐘 – 在馬拉斯鹽田停留 30 分鐘 – 1:30pm 抵達庫斯科機場

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Travel Agency: SAS Travel

  • (+) Professional advisors in the store, providing clear explanation and reasonable price
  • (+) Excellent group tour guide, taking care of every customer and explaining everything in details
  • (+) Good private tour car and driver, speaking basic English and having good attitude
  • (+) It’s possible to book SAS travel group tour one day before the tour

旅行代辦:SAS Travel

  • (+) 旅行社店內的行程規劃員很專業,行程和限制都解釋得很清楚、價格也很合理
  • (+) 旅行團的導遊素質很好,不僅照顧每位團員、也都詳細解釋遺址
  • (+) 包車服務的車輛和司機品質都很好,可以進行基本的英文溝通、服務態度也都很好
  • (+) 有可能在出發的前一天直接至門市訂購行程

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Notes

  • If you plan to leave the group tour in Ollataytambo, would suggest to book trains departing later than 3:30pm. Otherwise, you might not have enough time to enjoy the ruins!
  • Climbing up ruins in Pisac and Ollataytambo is a bit tiring, so you can consider to take altitude sickness pills
  • 30 minutes in Moray can be used to walk around ruins or go downstairs to experience different layers of terraces, but might not be enough to do both

大王筆記

  • 如果預計在奧揚泰坦博脫隊,建議訂購下午 3:30 以後的火車,才有足夠時間逛完遺址
  • 爬皮薩克和奧揚泰坦博遺址時比較累,建議可以考慮服用高山症藥、避免高山症發作
  • 在摩瑞如果只有 30 分鐘的時間,可以選擇 (1) 繞梯田走一圈,或是 (2) 走下台階,感受在不同高度、溫度下,印加人如何多元組合種植的品種、發展先進的農業技術

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Inca Rail / Peru Rail

  • If you book Inca/Peru trains, it would be better to pick up tickets in Cusco rather than in other selling points because of (1) the unpredictability of schedule when visit the sacred valley, and (2) more counters in Cusco than in other villages. Remember to bring your booking reference and the credit card you use to buy tickets!
  • Though Inca Rail has the rules of luggage limitation, actually there is enough space to store luggage on trains. No need to store luggage before taking trains!
  • Inca rail is very shaky. Not sure if Peru rail would be better or the same.
  • Since the scenery along the railway is really beautiful, suggest to book trains running during daytime, so you can enjoy the great view of mountains and rivers!
  • The first class provides meals and a bar with live music – but when the train is shaky, dining becomes difficult
  • It might be difficult to get a taxi if you arrive Ollataytambo at night by trains – suggest to book a hotel pickup!

鐵路比較:印加鐵路(Inca Rail)和祕魯鐵路(Peru Rail

  • 如果你訂購印加鐵路或祕魯鐵路的車票,建議在庫斯科取票、不要在其他聖谷小鎮的售票點取票,因為 (1) 參觀聖谷的時間不易掌握,且 (2) 在庫斯科的店面有更多服務櫃檯。取票時記得攜帶訂位證明,和刷卡消費時所使用的信用卡
  • 雖然印加鐵路有行李重量、尺寸限制,事實上車內的行李儲存空間很大,所以可以直接攜帶行李上車!
  • 印加鐵路的火車搖晃得非常厲害,不確定祕魯鐵路是否會比較平穩
  • 因為山地風光很美,建議購買白天的火車票,可以沿途欣賞高山、流水等景致
  • 頭等艙提供餐點、並設有附現場音樂的酒吧,但因為火車搖晃得很厲害,所以不太容易進食…
  • 如果你在晚上搭火車抵達奧揚泰坦博,有可能會不容易叫到計程車接送,建議安排旅館接送服務

Reference Blogs 參考網誌

 

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